Hellebores need full sun to partial shade; a site in deciduous shade that offers bright light in the winter months and protection from the summer sun can be the most successful. Hellebores are mostly sold as shade plants but are by no means shade loving – they will tolerate shady conditions, but will exhibit fewer blooms and sparser growth if in deep shade. Most hellebores will also live long and happy lives in pots – choose one not too much larger than the plant and move up as the plant grows. Use a liquid or granular fertilizer to keep the plants strong and well blooming; start in August and taper off after flowering. Hellebore niger in particular will appreciate a dose of lime on a regular basis and with this harder to grow species, this can be the secret to success.

Shelter evergreen types of hellebores from drying winds during winter if they are not covered by snow.  Plant near a windbreak or cover with conifer boughs for protection as the foliage can suffer leaf burn in extreme cold.

Hellebores have an extensive root system that needs a well-drained deep base with plenty of growing room and good air circulation.   Plant with root ball level with soil and ensure that any top dressings do not cover crown. If planted too deeply, they may not flower and the crowns can rot. Heavier soil can be lightened with generous amounts of compost but make sure that the site is well draining. Mulching with a rich compost such as land & sea can prevent weeds and conserve moisture but again, make sure that the crowns are clear.  Until established hellebores need regular moisture in the summer; do not allow to dry out. Plants are drought once established.

H. orientalis can benefit from the removal of all the old leaves in very early spring. Whitefly and aphids can overwinter on the undersides and removal can help reduce infestations. It can also help to remove a thin layer of the old mulch or soil from around the plant and replace with clean soil and mulch. If you notice an infestation a careful washing of the tops and undersides of the leaves with plain water can be very effective, failing that try a horticultural soap and be prepared to repeat.

For H. niger, H. sternii and their crosses, remove old and blackened leaves as regular maintenance- do not cut back as you would with H. orientalis and be careful not to damage immerging stems and flowers.

If you do not wish the plants to go to seed, cut off old flower stems to the base after flowers are finished in late spring. If you do, leave the heads until the seeds burst in late spring/early summer. Germination can take up to 18 months and plants may take up to 6 years to flower.

H. argutifolius and H. foetidus both flower on second year stems- remove flowered stems in early summer only.

All Hellebores resent being moved and divided and are best left alone!  If you must move an established clump it is important to dig deeply to get as much of the root ball as possible – late spring or early fall is the better time.  H. orientalis divide the easiest.  It is usually impractical to divide other cultivars and it’s sets them back so badly that it just is not worth the trouble- just buy more of these wonderful, easy care plants.